DIRECTOR: EMIL LIME @thelimelife_
VIDEOGRAPHER, PHOTOGRAPHER & EDITOR: JACOBUS SNYMAN @_iamjacob www.jacobussnyman.com
VIDEOGRAPHER: RU BOOYENS @i.vm.ru
MUSIC BY “CRYSTAL LION” COURTESY OF NATIVE YOUNG & YANNICK WILDE
As comfort in the expected suddenly ceased, the world was met with layer upon layer of a new and seemingly everchanging reality. They demanded order and we forged agility; both in fear and in hopes for a return of what we had once known.
But, through the stripping of our precious mundanity, revealed were shaking foundations of the systems in place. Left to hang are questions of who these systems are built to serve and whether they have malfunctioned or simply been uncovered. On an abandoned highway calling upon dystopian imagery, yet without the hopelessness and implore. We rather see strength; a firm calling for answers. An acknowledgment of the glitch, and a need to debug.
Mziyanda and Bryan take full form wearing AKJP, shot by Jacques Weyers. The strong contrasts in shape against overlays of monotones grip center focus. Clean cut lines transgress throughout; from angular hats and oversized belts to linked arms and sculpted jaws. Here hard lines in the pattern do not contain but somehow neutralize. Weyers’ use of color and pixelation not only nods to the glitch but further subdues the presence of pattern. AKJP has created stylistic yet functional garments that flatter the figure within. The texture is incorporated through the elevated line and pattern work, moreover by the unexpected harmonies shared between selected pieces. Styled by Gavin Mikey Collins, the union of ballooning shapes and feminine flow is sharpened with fierce clashes of print, color and accessory details.
With models serving us intrusive eye contact and rigid form, the theme of continuous lines is carried through. We are given shifts in the balance between masculine and feminine energy through pose, expression, cut, and flow.
Metallically luminous beauty is created by Michelle-Lee Collins. An empty highway during load shedding – with an oncoming car’s brights locked on. A mix up of chunky and intricate silver wear ping on notes of minerality; preciousness of the earth. Mziyanda and Bryan tease us further with shimmer overspills; a dare to try to outshine their glow.
Restricted only in physical space. A force toward growing, morphing and evolving, all while mourning what was lost. The glitch that opened eyes wide and cleansed minds with tides and recirculated flow so that we could all die and then arise.
Throwaway Twenty is about making the best mistakes. It’s about being mischievous, gutsy + unapologetic on a road to rediscovery. It’s about taking the underdogs along on the journey + coming home reborn showing the rest how we’ve lived + how we live now. It’s for everyone who needs a comeback story. It’s for the fighters, the dreamers, the lovers, the poets, the charmers, the courageous, the lost, the crazy stupid + the next generation. Welcome to our coming of age story second time around.
The message for Spring/Summer 20/21 this season is ‘Share Love Always’. The concept is a minimal escapist dream to utopia. The looks are a nod to the progress flag and each look is a head to toe full colour of the rainbow in versions of pastels as well as additional essential Throwaway Twenty colors for the season. The boys will be packing their bindle bags and heading off to a new world filled with love and simplicity.
We are revisiting some of our favourite cuts from our debut Spring/Summer 16/17 season with thoughtful embroidered details. The toned down feel of this season has been drawn from the global zeitgeist of current day-to-day wear during the pandemic. Inspired by pyjamas and easy going silhouettes in luxe fabrics which will be perfect for an indoor or outdoor Summer.
Sartorial Nostalgia | Thebe Magugu
A sentimental longing or wistful affection for a period in the past.”
Determining a newness in the realm of fashion is the path with which young designers carve the future; it is through the challenging of frameworks that allows the inquiry into creative expression the space and freedom to expand; and by building on tradition, while creating new rituals, new life is birthed into our view of sartorial consciousness. How we choose to dress imbues with it all the aspects of our existence; our personal stories and layers of experience upon which our Self is emitted into the world become more than a statement – it becomes our signature.
Thebe Magugu executes his signature as a designer and way shower with exceptional vision. In keeping with tradition, he employs a sentimentality and depth of meaning with every move within the brand’s expression; from the thoughtfulness of each collection as a tool to evoke deep emotions and cultural preservation, to the marriage between tangible garments and the intellectual pursuit of building not just a brand, but a legacy – such as with his annual zine The Faculty Press. As a designer, Thebe does not shy away from boldness; using colour, print and silhouette to etch a body of work constantly in motion and flux with his own personal development and growth. Through aestheticism and the mastery of his tailoring, we are invited into Thebe’s inner world in a very personal way with each season – as he ponders his nostalgia for his childhood, his family, and establishes himself firmly as a titan of South Africa’s cultural renaissance. I feel an homage and great healing taking place within the spirit of what Thebe’s career means to not just the fashion industry, but the creative world at large; the restorative process of art as a signifier of change becomes ever-more apparent.
Thebe’s second appearance at Paris Fashion Week took place a few moments ago through the unveiling of his highly anticipated SS21 collection. Continuing his interrogation of culture and intellect with a fascinating curiosity and decisive execution, Thebe drew on the perceived glamour and secrecy of espionage; a covert instrument vital to the story of contemporary South African history. After reading “Betrayal: the secret lives of apartheid spies’’ by Jonathan Acer, Thebe conceptualized and created a collection beyond what any Bond franchise could aim to do aesthetically or authentically; exquisitely tailored pieces accessorized with berets, harnesses and thigh boots evoke supreme mystery around the portrayal of one of the world’s most contentious professions. What Thebe brings is an elevated delivery of bespoke garments – through dressing characters from scenes of film without coming off as “costume” in any way, as the looks remain relatable while capturing the notion of being sought after at a highly luxurious level. Invoking the legacy of counter-intelligence as a politically crucial part of apartheid’s demise continued the thread of activism present in Thebe Magugu’s work; as his extraordinary vision continues as a homage to the true legacies of the past.
PHOTOGRAPHER: NADIA VON SCOTTI WWW.NADIAVONSCOTTI.COM
@KLEINPHOTOGRAPHEN & @HEROCREATIVEMANAGEMENT
DESIGNER: THEBE MAGUGU
FASHION DIRECTOR: CHRISNA DE BRUYN WWW.CHRISNADEBRUYN.COM
@DISCOCREATIVES & LAMPOSTSA
TEXT BY HOLLY BEATON
MODELS: YOYO @MYFRIENDNED & NOELLE @BOSSMODELSA
ASSISTANTS: PRINCE & WARREN & MBALI @LAMPOST.PEOPLE
LOCATION: DE BRUYN’S SE KLEIN PARADYS
She’s in contemplation, tuning into her inner being. She knows she is the creator of her inner garden, her reality. She follows the path of least resistance, 3-6-9 makes all the sense to her. And as the sequence of nature, she unfolds. It’s a time of purification. A time of inner searching, for her lost essence. In a journey back to the beginning of life itself. Watch her unfold, just as she’s meant to. Just as the perfection of the nature that created her.
The Winter 2020 Capsule Collection invites you to open and embrace the new solar cycle of Winter Solstice. As the sun rays shine into the dark, and nurture newborn life; we celebrate one of the most powerful points of the year as the axis of the Earth pauses, shifts and moves in the opposite direction. The sun standing still creates a mirror for the energy of the Solstice; to pivot and transform with intention whilst building on this energy as we enter into a new season of our lives. Invoking introspection, it is the fruitful darkness, stillness and silence out of which our soul’s true purpose and new inspirations can emerge. Let us unify in consciously linking our awareness to nature’s cycles and in doing so embrace our understanding of our own personal growth cycles as they begin to deepen and create space for regeneration and rebirth.
Featuring a range of timeless classics which transcend seasons and trends, Asha : Eleven’s Capsule Collection is designed with functionality, quality and comfort at the forefront. The line intends to furnish your core basics whilst creating the foundation for a sustainable wardrobe. The versatile styles invite you to elaborate with layering for depth and warmth.
The Capsule Collection is here to stay, it will never go on sale and you can expect to see the same classic styles repeated season after season, reinterpreted only by the palette of the cycle. It invites you to consider and consciously approach how you consume fashion; encouraging us all to put sustainability and the preservation of our planet as well as the people on it first. The range is fabricated from the highest quality natural fibres which include Hemp and Organic Cotton blend as well as pure Tencel™️, the most sustainable textile currently available which is made from tree bark. The collection is manufactured by small factories in Cape Town where the care and needs of the workers are considered and met.
PHOTOGRAPHER & FILM DIRECTOR: CAROLINE VIITANEN
ASSISTANT DIRECTOR: PHILLIPA REINDERS
PRODUCTION: FOLLOW THE LINE STUDIOS
DIGITAL OPERATOR: ROBIN BERNSTEIN
LIGHTING ASSISTANT: JOHMAR PRETORIUS
ASHA : ELEVEN WWW.ASHAELEVEN.COM
FASHION & ART DIRECTOR: CHRISNA DE BRUYN, WWW.CHRISNADEBRUYN.COM
STYLING ASSISTANT: GREGORY RUSSILL
MUA: ALET VILJOEN @SUPERNOVA
ASHA : ELEVEN ASSISTANTS: @LEEZBET & GALICECAM
MODELS: SUMMER THOMPSON & ANDY VAN DER WESTHUIZEN @BOSSMODELSA
DOP: DYLAN BOERSTRA @WE_ARE
FOCUS PULLER: ALI MOHAMED
EDITOR: LUKA SCOTT @WE_ARE
POST PRODUCER: CALVIN SHUSHU @WE_ARE
SOUNDTRACK: “MOSAIK” BY ALESSANDRO GIGLI @SPINSTREETSTUDIO
HATS BY CRYSTAL BIRCH
JEWELRY BY DEAR RAE
Migration plays such a big role in the world today that I found it very easy to call my collection “Migration is Beautiful #destroyallborders.” My collection mirrors the fact that migration is not a problem but a process. I wanted to share the untold side of immigrant stories.
The platform that was given to me gave me the opportunity to move away from the negative narrative that frequently go with immigrants and immigration, to one that told their stories from their own perspective. Immigrants are people who for any number of reasons, may become displaced in their countries of origin and find themselves searching for better pastures in foreign lands. They often get misinterpreted as criminals, or as people that take resources away from the people in their own countries. There might be individuals who will fall in this category, but there are more who make an honest living for themselves and therefore contribute to the economy of the new country they find themselves in. These are the people that leave their country as respected professionals and finding themselves etching a stable, honest living whichever way they can. The positive narrative that we should encourage here is that we are all human beings trying to survive and thrive – and these are the stories that should be told.
I got my inspiration for my collection from my own life experiences. I was born in Rwanda but was brought up in different parts of Africa as a Refugee. Everything I went through was always based on the Moto of “us versus them”. This never made sense to me because we have so much in common. We are all human beings that strive the same goals in life for ourselves and our loved ones, which is: safety, success (every person have their own interpretation of success) and to know that we are healthy, contributing members of the society, where ever we might find ourselves.
To use the words of Maya Angelou, “the crux of the message is that we are more alike than unalike, and therefore cannot be divided as humans because of borders.” It is also relevant socially because the sooner we realise that our differences should not be our stumbling blocks, but rather our points of celebration. As soon as we can embrace our commonalities, our whole social fabric will be mended because it relies heavily on unity as the entire global society. I believe that colours are energies and carry messages and I use colours to tell my stories. In this collection, I used multi colours and prints inspired by different cultures to show the harmony that can exist amongst people.
Starting with the collection, I had to come up with colours, prints, designs, cuts and details, and in order for me to do that I had to transport myself back to where everything started. I had to relive my journey to be able to share my feelings with the world, what and how it is to be a foreigner or a refugee. I had to showcase those experiences through this collection. This brought major challenges in the designing process. I had to relive my life story, and that opened a whole emotional journey. Giving that the collection was print-on-print, it was a challenge to ensure that the prints as well as colour combinations worked well together, to convey the story of my life. It was financially challenging to ensure that the message I wanted to convey came through given the limited resources I had to my disposal. Keeping in mind that everything from fabric designing to printing, as well as working on my own, added to the challenges.
It would be a dream come true if my collection could be received and appreciated by the global community #thebraveones and that I can open a conversation through this to show the bravery of immigrants, and make sure that their stories are properly told. I don’t have any particular favourites but I do appreciate artist who stay true to themselves in how they express their artistry and crafts. Cape Town has been a home that hasn’t felt like home, although I have spent half my life there, feeling that I am still not being accepted. I share this feeling with many other foreign nationals. This was the most important motivation that urged me to tell my story through my collection. This is my way to highlight the importance of acceptance.
Being unique and not shying away from my uniqueness might shock people. We must accept that every person is unique in his/her own way. I’ve found that many would rather follow the crowd, against their own believes, in order to fit in and be accepted. To stay connected to myself and who I am, I need to express myself and be properly represented and that is what my collections is all about.
PHOTOGRAPHER & FILM DIRECTOR: DILLON BUIRSKI @WE_ARE
FASHION & ART DIRECTOR: CHRISNA DE BRUYN, WWW.CHRISNADEBRUYN.COM
TEXT BY ALI GOLD
MUA: RICHARD PAINT @HERO
MUA ASSISTANT: ROBYN-LEE CROCKER
DOP: PATRICK QUINN SPILSBURY
EDITOR: LUKA SCOTT @WE_ARE
POST PRODUCER: CALVIN SHUSHU @WE_ARE
SOUNDTRACK: “REFUGEE’S WALK” BY MR.BLASE
BTS PHOTOGRAPHER: ANNIKA BOTHA
PRODUCTION: ANJA MARAIS @WE_ARE
MODELS: MICHAEL @ICEGENETICS
Olayinka Noel’s childhood dream to accessorise garments with bold jewellery matured into a fast developing business. She explains how her life changed since designing jewellery started to play a major role in her life.
It was with great excitement that I met Olayinka Noel and saw her accessory brand MIANIK. Olayinka’s journey in the fashion industry started as a young girl in Atlanta. She can still remember the joy she experienced every year when opening her birthday gifts from her mother. Seeing the pieces of jewellery initiated her passion for accessorising with jewellery.
Olayinka’s path took her first on a music career. This gave her an opportunity to envision her dream as Jewellery designer and launch her own Brand. The brand name MIANIK was derived from a combination of her two older sisters and her middle names. Her sisters have always supported her and led by example. MIANIK symbolises Sisterhood, Unity, Friendship and Loyalty.
The Brand was launched in October 2016 in Atlanta. Jewellery and accessorising have always been the way Olayinka expresses herself. Her designs are mainly Afro-Guyanese inspired with infusions from places she visited during her travels. She lives to find or create designs that showcases her Heritage. The quality of her work lifts the reflection of her customers outfit to a higher level. Every piece is unique and gives an individuality to it.
Featuring Ghanaian model Napari, shot by a South African team, at the peaceful expanse of Langebaan, this magical shoot celebrates slow fashion and the potential it has to correct our course as clothing over-producers.
Think about this for a moment: the global production of clothing has doubled since 2000. In only two decades, we’ve increased clothing output by 100%. But, while people buy more clothing today than 20 years ago, they only keep clothing for half as long.
That’s a pretty scary fact when you marry it with the fact that one garbage truck full of clothes is burned or dumped in a landfill – every second!
Let’s not even get into the labour issues, natural resource over-consumption and pollution problems that surround fast fashion and our obsession with something new to wear. What a legacy: we are literally wearing ourselves out of a planet.
It’s against this background that Daisie Jo is charging ahead in producing even more clothes, with her eponymous brand Daisie Jo.
Daisie Jo, former assistant creative director at Marianne Fassler, stands in total opposition to everything that fast fashion has normalised. Championing “mindful consumption”, she creates slow fashion that celebrates ‘slow living’ – in fact, the designer herself recently relocated her studio to the calm and quiet of the Karoo.
Her primary focus, far beyond what’s cool or trendy, is on craft, quality and timeless beauty. “At Daisie Jo, we embrace our imperfections and humanness,” she says, explaining that she creates season-less clothes with their lifespan in mind – “a piece you mend over time, instead of chucking it out.”
Each limited-edition piece is hand-crafted and is either once-off or part of small-batch collections, all produced in-house. Using fabrics like linen and silk, her garments feel that much better on the skin, knowing that they stand for something.
Daisie Jo’s playful but sophisticated brand asks each one of us: what will I stand for? Without a doubt, it’s time to stand with slow fashion.
For more about the brand, visit www.daisiejo.com.